Saint Laurent, Miu Miu and COS were riding high this summer says latest Lyst Index

The latest edition of the Lyst Index was released on Wednesday, covering Q3, and in a quarter in which all but three of the top 20 brands changed position, Saint Laurent took the number one spot for the first time.

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That came as shoppers searched for its micro bags and boots, but particularly loafers with the label’s Le Loafer being the second-hottest product in the July to September period.

The seemingly-unstoppable Miu Miu held it second spot with Lyst saying it’s “maintaining its grip on the Zeitgeist from collegiate codes to ballet-core styling”.

Importantly as well, H&M Group’s COS brand jumped four spots to become the world’s third-hottest label with searches up 147% this quarter. The brand has been on a roll in recent periods and that doesn’t look to be slowing down as it shows that a mass-premium label can hold its own against the top designer names globally.

Meanwhile, at a very different price point but with a similar minimalist profile, The Row moved up two spaces to number four with 28% growth in demand. And Coach held its fifth spot as it saw a 29% quarterly rise in searches. 

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The rest of the top 10 comprised Prada which was down two spots at number six, Bottega Veneta up two at number seven and Loewe down a massive six places at number eight in the wake of the departure of Jonathan Anderson. Ralph Lauren rose two spots to number nine following Taylor Swift’s engagement announcement in a Polo Ralph Lauren striped dress (this quarter’s ninth-hottest product), and Chloé was down two at number 10.

In the rest of the top 20, Moncler dropped one place to 11 to take it out out of the top 10, but Versace was up four places at number 12. Burberry continued its recovery with a four-spot jump to number 13 and Gucci did the same at number 14. 

Skims continued its product-driven ascent with a 271% year-on-year demand increase to join the top 20 at number 15. But it was followed by a number of fallers with Balenciaga down three places at 16, Jacquemus also down three at 17 and Alaia tumbling six spots to 18. 

Meanwhile Stone Island re-entered the top 20 at number 19 with a 115% quarter-on-quarter rise in searches, with Lyst saying it benefitted from the Oasis reunion tour halo effect. And Valentino returned to the top 20 in 20th place.

Nike moving fast

Interestingly, the ‘Moving Fast’ trio of brands this time weren’t dominated by high-end names. Nike was up 7% demand-wise signalling a potential comeback after it replaced its CEO and returned to performance-focused in innovation and strategic collaborations. And Madewell saw a 34% increase in demand riding the wave of the mall-brand renaissance with shoppers looking for slouchy shoulder bags, flats and jeans. The third brand, Nour Hamour, saw a 49% increase in demand this quarter for the refined, functional leather outerwear label blending Parisian polish with biker-inspired edge. 

As for those hottest products, top of the list was the Havaianas flip-flop with demand spiking 34% during the quarter. As mentioned Saint Laurent’s Le Loafer was next with The Row’s Eel Loafer also making the elite list at number four. The COS chunky cashmere sweater was in third place and it was actually a comeback for the item as it previously appeared in Q4 last year.

The Skims Nipple Bra was fifth which isn’t surprising on one level as it received a lot of publicity. It saw a 69% search spike in August with Lyst saying that once again it proved the brand ability to “turn conversation into conversion”.

Savette’s Slim Symmetry Pocket bag showed how short wide bags are proving popular, taking sixth place.

The previously referenced Nike comeback saw it with two sneakers in the top 10 including its Jacquemus collab Moon Shoe at number seven and its Shox TL at number eight.

That Polo Ralph Lauren dress was ninth and Coach’s Soft Empire Carryall 48 was 10th.

As for trends during the quarter, Lyst said that quiet luxury continues to have an impact with COS and The Row both demonstrating that. Meanwhile “conviction over reinvention” meant brands with “defined direction and consistent identity” were outperforming those that are in the middle of a creative transition. And brands like Skims and Coach are showing that viral products can also be very commercial, successfully converting social media buzz into actual sales.